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One of the few surviving traditional boozers in relentlessly redeveloped Liverpool, the 400-year-old Baltic Fleet stands defiantly opposite the city's historic dock complex. Once a haunt of stevedores and sea dogs, it is still in the business of serving ?4 Good old ale' and now ranks as the city's only home-brew pub, with copper stills and other paraphernalia in the basement. Ale buffs young and old come to sample its range of Wapping brews from Summer Ale and Smoked Porter to Liverpool Wit (a cloudy wheat beer). Food is limited to pies and bowls of traditional scouse stew, while the interior keeps it plain and simple ? old wooden tables, some bench seating and a wood-burning stove for those wind-whipping dockland winter nights. Four resident ghosts and a secret tunnel leading to the docks are tempters for the tourists.

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