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Recently refurbished for the umpteenth time in its long history, this Soho survivor has been de-cluttered, remodelled and given a facelift by current landlords Mitchells & Butlers. The drinks list has also been improved, with Meantime and Camden beers on a big line-up of quality draught brews, plus guest ales and a sensible selection of wines aimed at mid-market metropolitan crowd – and we do mean ‘crowd’, especially at peak times. Find a space in the spruced-up Georgian-style snug or on a communal bench in the upstairs bar and order uncomplicated pub grub including three-course weekday deals at £13 (think deep-fried whitebait, mac ’n’ cheese etc). The full menu covers everything from sandwiches and platters to pork and chorizo burgers, southern-fried chicken and slaw, Wiltshire rare-breed pork sausages with beer mustard mash or cider- and tarragon-battered hake and chips. Decent Sunday roasts too.

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