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“Still a great little watering hole”, this charmingly historic pub is a highly popular oasis in the wastelands south of the Earls Court exhibition centres. Wood panelling, a stripped-back floor, refectory tables and exposed fireplaces create a cosy set-up – so relax at the bar with a pint of real ale or choose from a menu that mixes hearty British themes with some Mediterranean influences to telling effect. Dishes ranging from salmon and dill fishcakes or roast skate with celeriac dauphinoise, capers and fennel to osso bucco or fabada astoriana (a Spanish pork stew) are imaginative, capably cooked and refreshingly good value. The Atlas takes wine seriously too, with regular workshops hosted by the London Wine Academy. Staff are sociable and there’s a slim beer garden for fine-weather boozing. “The best bet in the area”, chimes a local fan.

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